Maurice Hercog<\/strong> au ajuns la Annapurna I. Au pl\u0103tit pentru succesul lor pierz\u00e2ndu-\u0219i toate degetele de la picioare (Lachenal) si de la maini (Hercog). Au fost amputate bucat\u0103 cu bucat\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 anestezie, \u00een timpul cobor\u00e2rii din Tab\u0103ra I \u00een tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103 \u0219i apoi \u00een timpul caravanei c\u0103tre Kathmandu. <\/p>\n\n\n\nDoar trei ani mai t\u00e2rziu, apicultorul din Noua Zeeland\u0103, Edmund Hillary<\/strong> a ajuns \u00een v\u00e2rful celui mai \u00eenalt munte al P\u0103m\u00e2ntului, Muntele Everest. Nepalezul, Tenzing Norgay<\/strong> care l-a \u00eenso\u021bit, a avut amabilitatea s\u0103-\u0219i a\u0219tepte partenerul cu c\u00e2\u021biva metri \u00eenainte de v\u00e2rf pentru a putea urca \u00eempreun\u0103. O lun\u0103 mai t\u00e2rziu, alpinismul austriac Herman Buhl<\/strong> a urcat pe Nanga Parbat. \u00cen timpul atacului de la v\u00e2rf, nu a folosit oxigen, ci a luat medicamente pe baz\u0103 de amfetamine. Ast\u0103zi am afirma f\u0103r\u0103 echivoc c\u0103 a fost doping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n
\n
La traversarea crevaselor de ghea\u021b\u0103, se folosesc adesea scaritele (foto arhitectural\u0103 Tomasz Kobielski)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\nUltimul munte de opt mii urcat, este Shishapangma. Este, de asemenea, cel mai jos v\u00e2rf al Coroanei Himalaya \u0219i Karakoram. Acest lucru se datoreaz\u0103 faptului c\u0103 acest v\u00e2rf este singurul care se afl\u0103 \u00een \u00eentregime \u00een China. Autorit\u0103\u021bile comuniste nu au eliberat nim\u0103nui permise de alpinism p\u00e2n\u0103 c\u00e2nd muntele nu a fost cucerit de compatrio\u021bi. Acest lucru s-a \u00eent\u00e2mplat \u00een 1964, c\u00e2nd o echip\u0103 de zece persoane de alpinisti chinezi, special delegati \u00een acest scop, au ajuns la v\u00e2rf.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Himalaya polonez\u0103<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Prima expedi\u021bie polonez\u0103 \u00een Himalaya a avut loc \u00een vara anului 1939. Polonii au atins v\u00e2rful virgin Nanda Devi Est (7434m), de\u0219i visau s\u0103 urce varful K2. Organizarea expedi\u021biilor ulterioare a fost posibil\u0103 numai \u00een timpul a\u0219a-numitului \u201edezghe\u021b Gomu\u0142ka\u201d, adic\u0103 din 1955. \u00cen acel moment, Boles\u0142aw Chwa\u015bci\u0144ski a ini\u021biat expedi\u021bii \u00een Hindukush. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een 1978, au avut loc nou\u0103zeci. Preg\u0103ti\u021bi de alpinismul de var\u0103 \u0219i iarn\u0103 \u00een Mun\u021bii Tatra, alpini\u0219tii pornesc rapid spre Alpi sau Mun\u021bii Caucaz. \u00cen 1971, polonezii condu\u0219i de Andrzej Zawada au ajuns la Kunyang Chhish (7852 m). \u00cencep\u00e2nd din 1976, nu a existat sezon f\u0103r\u0103 o expedi\u021bie polonez\u0103 \u00een cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi. Primul polonez, care a urcat pe Muntele Everest a fost alpinista Wanda Rutkiewicz<\/strong> (16 octombrie 1978). Anii 1980 sunt de obicei numi\u021bi Epoca de Aur a alpinismului polonez din Himalaya. Alpinismul din Himalaya a devenit un sport na\u021bional \u0219i a avut vedetele sale binemeritate, bucur\u00e2ndu-se de recunoa\u0219tere interna\u021bional\u0103. Cei mai mari dintre ei sunt Krzysztof Wielicki<\/strong>, Jerzy Kukuczka<\/strong>, Wanda Rutkiewicz<\/strong>, Wojciech Kurtyka<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nHimalaya \u0219i Karakoram iarna<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Pe 17 februarie 1980, Krzysztof Wielicki<\/strong> \u0219i Leszek Cichy<\/strong> au fost primii oameni care au ajuns \u00een v\u00e2rful unui opt mii<\/em> pe timp de iarn\u0103. \u0218i a fost si cel mai \u00eenalt munte din lume cucerit iarna. Andrzej Zawada<\/strong>, numit Conduc\u0103torul, s-a specializat \u00een organizarea expedi\u021biilor de iarn\u0103. Polonezii au fost primii oameni care au cucerit Muntele Everest, Manaslu, Czo Oju, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna \u0219i Lhotse iarna. Dup\u0103 moartea lui Jerzy Kukuczka<\/strong> (a murit pe Lhotse \u00een 1989) \u0219i a Wandei Rutkiewicz<\/strong> (a disp\u0103rut \u00een 1992, cu 300 de metri \u00eenainte de v\u00e2rful Kanchenjunga), steaua alpinismului himalayan, inclusiv alpinismului de iarn\u0103 din Himalaya, a \u00eenceput s\u0103 apuna. Abia \u00een 2005, un polonez, Piotr Morawski<\/strong> (\u00eentr-o echip\u0103 cu italianul Simone Moro) au ajunst \u00een v\u00e2rful unui munte de opt mii, care nu fusese \u00eenc\u0103 cucerit iarna – Szishapangma. Provocarea atingerii v\u00e2rfurilor r\u0103mase a fost preluat\u0103 de Artur Hajzer, care a \u00eenfiin\u021bat programul de alpinism polonez de iarn\u0103 \u00een Himalaya \u00een acest scop. Datorit\u0103 acestei ini\u021biative, polonezii au ajuns pe \u00eenc\u0103 dou\u0103 v\u00e2rfuri de opt mii m pe timp de iarn\u0103: Gasherbrum I \u0219i Broad Peak. Expedi\u021biile poloneze au \u00eencercat \u0219i ele s\u0103 cucereasc\u0103 Nanga Parbat \u0219i K2 de multe ori, dar au e\u0219uat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\u00cen cele din urm\u0103, polonezii au cucerit zece din paisprezece v\u00e2rfuri de opt mii \u00een timpul iernii (\u00een expedi\u021bii poloneze sau interna\u021bionale). Majoritatea acestor ascensiuni au avut loc f\u0103r\u0103 utilizarea oxigenului, unele pe rute noi sau singuri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
K2 a rezistat cel mai mult timp atacurilor a numeroase expedi\u021bii din \u00eentreaga lume. Pe 16 ianuarie 2021, zece alpini\u0219ti nepalezi au urcat pe v\u00e2rful celui mai dificil munte de opt mii: Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Tempa Sherpa, Pem Chhriri Sherpa, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa \u0219i Sona Sherpa.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\nVarful K2 este ultimul de opt mii urcat iarna (foto arhivat\u0103 de Janusz Go\u0142\u0105b)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nCine sunt \u0219erpa\u0219ii?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n C\u00e2nd citim sau auzim despre expedi\u021bii \u00een Himalaya sau Karakoram, afl\u0103m adesea c\u0103, \u00een afar\u0103 de alpini\u0219tii din Himalaya, au luat parte mai mul\u021bi sau o duzin\u0103 de \u0219erpasi. Putem avea impresia c\u0103 sunt un fel de ajutoare sau chiar hamali. Nimic mai gre\u0219it! \u0218erpa\u0219ii sunt un popor tibetan care tr\u0103ie\u0219te \u00een zonele muntoase din India \u0219i Nepal. Mul\u021bi dintre ei sunt ghizi montani profesioni\u0219ti. Ei lucreaz\u0103 adesea ca gardieni pentru membrii expedi\u021biilor comerciale. Ei nu numai c\u0103 at\u00e2rn\u0103 fr\u00e2nghii, dar \u0219i \u00ee\u0219i conduc clien\u021bii \u00een sus \u0219i \u00eenapoi la baz\u0103, le monteaz\u0103 corturi, le ofer\u0103 oxigen sau m\u00e2ncare \u0219i chiar fixeaz\u0103 echipamentul pe fr\u00e2nghii. Poti spune ca sunt elita ghizilor de munti inalti. Mul\u021bi dintre ei au fost de cateva zeci de ori pe v\u00e2rfurile celor mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi. Nu toti \u0219erpasii sunt ghizi montani, la fel cum nu orice ghid montan local este un \u0219erpas. C\u0103ci acest termen se refer\u0103 la oameni, nu la profesie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Deoarece \u0219erpa\u0219ii tr\u0103iesc zilnic la o altitudine de 3 p\u00e2n\u0103 la 6 mii de metri (adic\u0103 mai mare dec\u00e2t multe baze de expedi\u021bii din Himalaya), organismele lor s-au adaptat la condi\u021biile montane chiar \u0219i la nivel genetic, a\u0219a cum demonstreaz\u0103 cercet\u0103rile \u0219tiin\u021bifice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Doping \u00een cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi din lume<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Herman Buhl este dovada c\u0103 po\u021bi fi un pionier al stilului alpin \u00een cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi \u0219i sa folosesti dopajul \u00een acela\u0219i timp. P\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een 1978, mul\u021bi nu credeau c\u0103 se poate urca pe cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi din lume f\u0103r\u0103 a folosi oxigenul dintr-un cilindru. Cu toate acestea, pe 8 mai 1978, Reinhold Messner \u0219i Peter Habeler au realizat imposibilul: au urcat pe Muntele Everest f\u0103r\u0103 oxigen. Messner a repetat isprava doi ani mai t\u00e2rziu, de data aceasta singur. De atunci, s-a considerat c\u0103 urcarea sportiva \u00eenseamn\u0103 ac\u021biune f\u0103r\u0103 ajutorul unei butelii de oxigen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dar ce \u00eenseamn\u0103 exact \u201ef\u0103r\u0103 oxigen\u201d? La urma urmei, po\u021bi urca pe cont propriu, dar te regenerezi noaptea \u00eentr-un cort, dormind cu o butelie de oxigen. \u00cen prezent, fiecare utilizare a oxigenului, chiar si la cobor\u00e2rea de pe v\u00e2rful dat, distruge dimensiunea sportiv\u0103 a c\u0103\u021b\u0103r\u0103rii. Dac\u0103 folosim oxigen \u00een orice etap\u0103 de urcare, aclimatizare sau cobor\u00e2re, urcarea pe un opt mii este considerat turism de mare altitudine. O excep\u021bie se face doar pentru ascensiunile de explorare, de exemplu pentru primele ascensiuni de iarn\u0103. Acum c\u0103 toate v\u00e2rfurile au fost cucerite vara \u0219i iarna, stilul nu poate fi dec\u00e2t \u00eembun\u0103t\u0103\u021bit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Stiluri \u00een alpinismul pe opt mii<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Apropo de stil, nu exist\u0103 o diviziune important\u0103: urcari \u00een stil alpin \u0219i urcari de asediu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Urcarea in stil alpin inseamna catarare usoara. Sub acest termen includem un rucsac foarte greu. Ajun\u0219i pe v\u00e2rf \u00een stil alpin, purt\u0103m cu noi echipamentul complet al taberelor individuale. De asemenea, nu folosim fr\u00e2nghii at\u00e2rnate de alte echipe sau expedi\u021bii. Urc\u0103m \u00eentr-o echip\u0103 mic\u0103 de doi-trei oameni \u0219i ajungem \u00een v\u00e2rf \u00een c\u00e2teva zile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Acest stil a fost folosit, printre al\u021bii, de cel mai remarcabil alpinist polonez Wojciech Kurtyka<\/strong> in Himalaya \u0219i Karakoram. Liniile sale vizionare, extrem de ambi\u021bioase au doar c\u00e2teva repet\u0103ri pentru c\u0103 sunt at\u00e2t de dificile.<\/p>\n\n\n\nAl doilea \u0219i mult mai popular stil, este stilul de asediu. Un num\u0103r mare de alpini\u0219ti sunt implica\u021bi \u00een atingerea unui anumit v\u00e2rf, precum \u0219i \u0219erpa\u0219i (adic\u0103 ghizi montani specializa\u021bi) \u0219i hamali. Expedi\u021bia garanteaz\u0103 tronsoane dificile de drum, face camping, se aclimatizeaz\u0103 pe traseul selectat p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een v\u00e2rf. A\u0219a au func\u021bionat expedi\u021biile conduse de Andrzej Zawada, Janusz Kurczab \u0219i Krzysztof Wielicki, inclusiv ultima expedi\u021bie polonez\u0103 de iarn\u0103 pe K2 2017\/2018.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi din lume – Coroana Himalaya \u0219i Karakoram<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Cum s\u0103 cuceriti Coroana Himalaya \u0219i Karakorum? Este simplu: urcati pe toate cele paisprezece varfuri de opt mii metri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Primul om din istorie care a urcat pe Coroana Himalaya \u0219i Karakoram a fost italianul Reinhold Messner, al doilea a fost polonezul Jerzy Kukuczka, iar al treilea a fost elve\u021bianul Erhard Loretan. Recordul pentru viteza de c\u00e2\u0219tigare a Coroanei este de\u021binut de cel mai recent c\u00e2\u0219tig\u0103tor al acesteia, Nirmala Purji, care a f\u0103cut-o \u00een 187 de zile. \u00cen afar\u0103 de Kukuczka, doar trei polonezi au realizat aceast\u0103 isprav\u0103: Krzysztof Wielicki, Piotr Pustelnik (actualul pre\u0219edinte al Asocia\u021biei Poloneze de Alpinism) \u0219i un kazah cu cet\u0103\u021benie polonez\u0103, Denis Urubko.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Urcarea pe cel mai \u00eenalt munte din lume poate fi… u\u0219oar\u0103?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n At\u00e2t alpini\u0219tii profesioni\u0219ti, c\u00e2t \u0219i turi\u0219tii de mare altitudine disting \u00eentre muntii de opt mii, urcari \u201eu\u0219oare\u201d \u0219i \u201edificile\u201d. Mun\u021bii simpli sunt cei care nu au dificult\u0103\u021bi tehnice majore \u2013 printre ace\u0219tia se num\u0103r\u0103 cel mai \u00eenalt v\u00e2rf de pe P\u0103m\u00e2nt, Muntele Everest. Sunt considerate dificile urm\u0103toarele varfuri: K2 (dificult\u0103\u021bi de st\u00e2nc\u0103 la o altitudine de 8.000 de metri), Kanchenjunga (apropiere de creasta foarte lung\u0103), Broad Peak (dificult\u0103\u021bi la marginea v\u00e2rfului St\u00e2ncos) sau Annapurna I (distan\u021be mari de dep\u0103\u0219it). Mul\u021bi alpinisti indic\u0103 Cz Oyu drept cel mai u\u0219or v\u00e2rf de opt mii. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Datorit\u0103 multor ani de observa\u021bii, pentru fiecare v\u00e2rf de opt mii s-a stabilit momentul c\u00e2nd vremea este – cel pu\u021bin \u00een teorie- cea mai favorabil\u0103. Ce \u00eenseamn\u0103 asta \u00een practic\u0103? Se planuieste deplasarea \u00een v\u00e2rf atunci c\u00e2nd nu exist\u0103 un risc mare de furtun\u0103 de z\u0103pad\u0103, ninsori intense, v\u00e2nt puternic sau avalan\u0219e masive. Pentru majoritatea varfurilor de opt mii ,cel mai favorabil moment este luna mai, care este perioada de dinaintea musonului de var\u0103. Un muson este un v\u00e2nt cauzat de diferen\u021bele dintre \u00eenc\u0103lzirea m\u0103rii \u0219i a p\u0103m\u00e2ntului. \u00cen iunie, vine anotimpul ploios, care \u00een cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi ai lumii se manifest\u0103 prin ninsori abundente. Riscul de avalan\u0219\u0103 cre\u0219te semnificativ atunci.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n
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Spre varf se porneste dac\u0103 prognoza anun\u021b\u0103 o fereastr\u0103 de vreme buna, (arhiva foto Tomasz Kobielski)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\nAlpinismul de iarn\u0103 este o idee care contrazice \u021bintirea celui mai bun moment al anului \u00een care po\u021bi urca v\u00e2rful. Iarna apare si musonul, de data aceasta suflind de pe uscat spre mare. Prin urmare, iarna te po\u021bi a\u0219tepta la cele mai mari, extreme de temperaturi scazute \u0219i v\u00e2nturi de uragan care ating viteze de p\u00e2n\u0103 la 200 km\/h la munte. \u00cen astfel de condi\u021bii, temperatura perceput\u0103 poate fi de minus 60, minus 70 de grade. Omul nu poate supravie\u021bui. De aceea, expedi\u021bia urm\u0103re\u0219te \u00eendeaproape prognozele meteo \u0219i avertizeaz\u0103 c\u00e2nd se deschide fereastra meteo. Acest termen \u00eenseamn\u0103 c\u00e2teva zile cu condi\u021bii meteo relativ bune. Prin urmare, alpinismul de iarn\u0103 nu este doar \u201earta suferin\u021bei\u201d (cum a spus Wojtek Kurtyka), ci \u0219i arta r\u0103bd\u0103rii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Care este diferen\u021ba dintre un alpinist himalaist \u0219i un turist de munti inalti?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Nu orice cuceritor al Muntelui Everest se poate considera un alpinist himalaist. A\u0219a cum \u00een alpinism distingem \u00eentre alpinisti \u0219i turi\u0219ti, acela\u0219i lucru este valabil \u0219i pentru cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi. Un alpinist himalaist este o persoan\u0103 care poate ac\u021biona independent \u00een cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi datorit\u0103 aptitudinilor \u0219i experien\u021bei sale. \u00cen func\u021bie de stilul ales de ac\u021biune montan\u0103, urc\u0103 singur sau \u00een echip\u0103, stabile\u0219te tabere individuale, efectueaz\u0103 aclimatizarea, traseaza traseul \u0219i a\u0219a mai departe. Turistul de munti inalti, apeleaz\u0103 la serviciile agen\u021biilor de expedi\u021bie. Oferta lor include grija din partea ghizilor califica\u021bi, livrarea de butelii de oxigen, amenajarea corturilor. \u00cen plus, turi\u0219tii folosesc fr\u00e2nghii fixe at\u00e2rnate de ghizi. O expedi\u021bie comercial\u0103, pentru c\u0103 vorbim despre ea, nu este niciodat\u0103 o expedi\u021bie de explorare, adic\u0103 c\u0103tre un v\u00e2rf virgin. Aproape \u00eentotdeauna duce de-a lungul drumurilor clasice, cunoscute altfel drept calea primilor cuceritori. \u00cen practic\u0103, acesta este cel mai simplu traseu \u0219i cel mai bine dotat cu facilit\u0103\u021bi artificiale, precum fr\u00e2nghii fixe sau depozite de butelii de oxigen. <\/p>\n\n\n
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Cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi din lume sunt pe c\u00e2t de frumo\u0219i, pe at\u00e2t de periculo\u0219i (foto arhitectural\u0103 Tomasz Kobielski)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\nMai sunt provoc\u0103ri \u00een cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi ai lumii?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi din lume nu se limiteaz\u0103 la opt mii. Exist\u0103 sute de v\u00e2rfuri de \u0219apte sau \u0219ase mii de metri care nu au fost niciodat\u0103 atinse de un picior de om. Exist\u0103 \u0219i v\u00e2rfuri sau drumuri solicitante din punct de vedere tehnic, precum Magic Line pe varful K2, parcurs \u00een 1986 de o echip\u0103 polonez\u0103, repetat abia \u00een 2004, sau Trango Towers din Karakorum, care ofer\u0103 1200 m de dificultate pe o plac\u0103 vertical\u0103. O provocare care \u00eenc\u0103 a\u0219teapt\u0103 s\u0103 fie implementat\u0103 este, de exemplu, traversarea Muntele Everest\u2013Lhotse, f\u0103r\u0103 oxigen in cilindru. Sau Zidul Luminii de 2500 m lungime, fa\u021ba de vest a Gasherbrum IV, urcat de Wojtek Kurtyka \u0219i Robert Shauer \u00een 1985. Ascensiunea lor este considerat\u0103 cea mai mare realizare a alpinismului din Himalaya din secolul al XX-lea. Un alt tip de provocare sunt ascensiunile rapide (mai pu\u021bin de 24 de ore de la tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 la v\u00e2rf \u0219i retur), f\u0103cute tot singur. Multe v\u00e2rfuri virgine \u00ee\u0219i a\u0219teapt\u0103 cuceritorii \u00een Hindu Kush sau Pamir. Po\u021bi evita aglomera\u021bia din cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi ai lumii – tot ce ai nevoie este pu\u021bin\u0103 ambi\u021bie.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Asociem cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bi cu legendarii munti de opt mii metri \u0219i cu Epoca de Aur a alpinismului polonez himalayan. Ce trebuie s\u0103 \u0219ti\u021bi despre Himalaya \u0219i Karakoram?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":48204,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[26049],"tags":[26073,26099,26093],"class_list":["post-48147","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpinism","tag-alpinism","tag-ghid","tag-tot-anul"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n
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![\"Cei](\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/MB_czarna_piramida1.jpg\")
![\"caravana](\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/20141105_112548.jpg\")
![\"urcarea](\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/36.jpg\")
![\"cei](\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/IMG_35161.jpg\")
![\"cei](\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/20141104_091005.jpg\")
![\"cei](\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/32.jpg\")